Bicycle Computers

Bicycle computers or cyclocomputers range in their functionality and price. The simplest cycle computers calculate total distance (odometer), trip distance, current and maximum speeds and a clock. These usually function with a cadence magnet. More complex bicycle computers are equipped with the previous functions as well as altitude, slope, temperature, current/average/max speed, multiple trip distances and even GPS. Many of the more complex computers run wireless systems, avoiding the need to run a wire from the headset down to the fork assembly.

Cycle Analyst

The cycle analyst has become the ebike enthusiast’s most trusted ally. It has been designed to operate with electric vehicles as an “e-meter”, to keep track of the vehicle’s battery usage and performance characteristics.

Once connected to the vehicle’s power bus, the Cycle Analyst calculates and shows the following information:

• Volts, Watts, Amps: The instantaneous electric power being drawn from the battery.
• Amp-Hours, Watt Hours: The net energy that has been pulled from the pack since the meter was reset. The accumulated amp-hours let you know the remaining energy in the battery pack with far greater accuracy than a voltage or LED indicator.
• Speed, Distance, Time: All of the basic features of a bicycle computer, including the average and maximum trip speeds, plus a total distance odometer.
• Regen, Wh/km: There are several quantities this meter will calculate that you don’t get with other instrumentation, such as the % extra range that was gained from regenerative braking, as well as the vehicle’s average energy use in Watt-hours per kilometer or mile.
• Peak Currents and Voltage Sag: Records the maximum forwards and regenerative currents as well as the minimum voltage on the battery pack.
• Total Battery Cycles and Amp-Hours: Retains life cycle information on the vehicle’s battery pack, such as how many charge and discharge cycles the pack has experienced and the total amp-hours that were delivered over its entire life.

Furthermore, the Cycle Analyst has the ability to over-ride the user’s throttle and regulate the power delivered to the motor, turning an otherwise dumb ebike into an intelligent device with a user programmable speed limit, current limit, and low voltage cutout.

• Speed Limit: This has the utility of providing legal compliance to the speed cap imposed on ebikes in most jurisdictions. When used with a full throttle, it serves as a cruise control on the electric bicycle. It can also be beneficial to riders who want to increase their torque and power by using a higher voltage battery, without simultaneously increasing their top-end speed.
• Current Limit: An adjustable amps limit is useful to prevent damage to the batteries from excessive current draw, to increase the range that you’ll get on a charge, and to protect the motor controller and motor in setups that draws too many amps.
• Voltage Cutout: A low voltage cutout is used to protect a battery pack from being discharged too deeply, which can cause cell reversals in NiMH/NiCad packs, permanent cell damage in Lithium packs, and sulfation in Lead Acid batteries. The programmable low voltage rollback allows you to set an appropriate low voltage point tailored to your pack.

Additionally, the Cycle Analyst features:

• Remote Shunt: Unlike the watt-meters and amp-hour meters designed for RC hobbyists, the Cycle Analyst uses a remote shunt for sensing current rather than running wire through the meter, so you do not need to route heavy gauge battery cables up to the handlebar and back.
• Backlit LCD: The display readout is well illuminated for night riding.
• Water Resistant: The circuitry is fully enclosed in a sealed box enabling it to withstand exposure to wet and rainy conditions.
• Handlebar Mounting: Easily attaches to handlebar tubes from 7/8″ to 1 ¼” diameter with included hardware.
• Save on Power Down: Trip data such as amp-hours and distance are saved when the meter is shut off, and are restored when power is re-applied.
• Fwd and Negative Amps: Both positive and negative amp-hours are displayed separately, so you can calculate accurate regenerative braking statistics or use it to monitor charging currents as well.
• Wide Voltage Range: Operates from 15V to 100V, accommodating the vast majority of all small electric vehicles. A high voltage option for use up to 200V is available on special request.
• Flexible Speed Input: Detects vehicle speed either with a magnet and sensor cable or through the hall effect signal on brushless motor controllers.
• Data Logging: Devices have a serial output stream that can be used for real-time recording the vehicle statistics to a computer or laptop.

We recommend upgrading your ebike to include either a cyclocomputer or a cycle analyst to give you some feedback and control of your ebikes functions. All of the complete electric bikes that we carry, either come with a cyclocomputer or a similar device that will give you some of the simple readings necessary.

Front Wheel Conversion

The front wheel conversion has been by far the most popular of the kits that we sell. This can be attributed mainly to the ease of installation and the capability of running a disc brake on the motor for cool, efficient stopping. The install requires taking off the front wheel of your bike and mounting the new motor wheel. Easy peasy! You will have to mount the throttle, the battery/controller, adjust the brake, and attach the wires. That’s about it. The front drive makes you feel like you are being pulled, and in combination with your bikes drivetrain and gears, you now have both wheels working for you. This proves to be advantageous in icy or snowy weather for all the reasons that all-wheel drive cars are better on slick roads.

The battery at the back, the rider in the middle and the motor at the front makes the weight distribution equally displaced.

The other nice thing about the front wheel drive kit is the ability to run an internal hub gear in the rear wheel. Many bikes come with 3, 7, 8, and now 9 internal rear gears which you can change at a stop. This makes city commuting that much easier. If you come to a stop and you are in the wrong gear for take off, the internal gear enables you to gear down at the stop and not worry about your chain falling off or getting caught between gears.

Disadvantages include the inability to have a large (750W + ) motor at the front because of the drop outs. Torque arms are available which are great for most motors, but the bigger you get the more torque the motor has.

Rear Wheel Conversion

The rear wheel conversion gives your bike the same sort of push effect that you would get on a motorcycle. On the rear you are able to run a stronger motor as you can beef up suspension and brakes quite easily. The motor at the rear adds lots of weight to the back of the bike ensuring that traction wont be lost in dry weather. Another advantage is you are able to use a quick disconnect front wheel which is great for transport and some folding bikes like the Montague.

There are a few disadvantages. The installation and removal of the kit takes more time. There is added stress on the rear axle but if the frame is of decent material, this should not pose to be a major issue. Torque arms are available for the rear as well. The major disadvantage is if the battery is also mounted on the rear, then little weight will be present on the front wheel. This causes steering to become a little erratic. If you throttle too much and are spinning out, the best thing to do is use your front brake and try to straighten out your steering.

With all these different options, which electric bike conversion kit is right for me? We recommend reading these blog posts to better help you merge the best kit with your preferred bike. In some cases, a new electric bicycle may be your best option.

• Front vs. Rear Wheel Drive kits

• Direct Drive vs. Geared hub motors

• Bicycle Brake Systems

• eBike Computers

If you have decided on which kit may fit your needs, check their availability and price at Electric Bike Kits.

Electric bike kits are for the riders that really like their current bicycle and components but want the option of electric assistance. It’s easy to install and we have many installation guides and installation videos for the different kits we offer.

Which electric conversion kit is right for me? Please refer to our informative blog post.

Folding bikes generally come in one frame size per model, but have the ability to be adjusted greater than most standard bicycles. Handlebar stems and seat posts extend as much as 4 times higher than most conventional bikes. The main similarity that folding bikes and conventional bikes share is the distance between the center of the bottom bracket and the top of the handlebar stem and seat post. This is the primary factor in determining that the bicycle fits the rider. The wheelbase of the folders is also very similar to that of a regular, non-folding bicycle.

Overlaid photos of a 20" wheel folding bike and a 700C wheel road bike. Notice the similarities?

If you were to replace the Lead batteries with a 36V 8Ah lithium pack, you may see less range than the lead acids produced when new, but a lighter and longer lasting battery. If you ran a 10Ah or 14Ah lithium battery of the same voltage, you would most likely have better range, more power up hills and a lighter, longer lasting battery.

Many of the lithium packs available have positioned the cells and BMS according to the housing they’re meant to fit into. If you are replacing a lead acid battery case with lithium cells, make sure that you will be able to adjust the cells and BMS to fit into your bikes housing.

If you are running multiple battery packs of the same voltage but do not have them hardwired together for charging, you need to make sure that all packs are balanced before you run them together on the bike. For example if you have two batteries and you are only able to charge up one before your ride, you will have to only run one at a time. Running batteries that are off balance can cause long term battery damage.

Stay tuned for in-depth posts on the subject of electric bicycle battery life and care and maintenance of electric bicycle batteries.

The most important accessories for your bike are mirrors, a comfortable seat, lights, horns or bells, carry racks and carriers (panniers). The mirror is typically the most important accessory as you are able to avoid constant shoulder checking by noticing emerging traffic in the mirrors. Most electric bike and folding bike owners prefer to adhere just one mirror on the left side of the bike. Usually this is done through handlebar-end mirrors. Putting the mirror on the left side also does not conflict with the throttle which is on the right side of most electric bikes.

Lithium Polymer

The lithium polymer (LiPoly) battery is definitely  the lightest battery option available, making them evermore popular on ebikes and RC planes and helicopters. The LiPoly cells can handle very high discharge currents which works well in these applications. The LiPoly batteries that we supply are contained in rigid enclosures, making them structurally sound to avoid damage. LiPoly batteries traditionally had some bad reviews a few years ago with them being volatile to punctures, creating a fire. This however, has been eliminated in the newer generation of batteries that we carry and are able to withstand punctures and overcharging without the chance of flames. Pretty good advancements for a battery that’s only been on the market since 2006.

Lithium Manganese

Many quality electric bike and kit manufacturers have been using the Lithium Manganese (LiMn) batteries since 2005. They are heavier than the polymer batteries but seem to perform quite well. They have good discharge capabilities holding voltage better over the course of the battery discharge than the Lithium Polymer. This means that the Manganese battery holds its power right until the end of the batteries discharge, while the Polymer has less power towards the end of it’s discharge. We have however, found that in real world conditions (especially Canada), that the LiMn are not lasting as long in lifespan as we would have hoped. This may attributed to the BMS (battery management system) that controls the output of the batteries. If one of these cells fails prematurely, the entire pack is negatively affected. Companys like BionX use a LiMn pack that does not have a BMS and does not have the same failure rate. We have also found that moisture can affect the LiMn packs more so than the Polymer and the Iron Phosphate packs.

Lithium Iron Phosphate

The lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) battery is by far the most discussed battery of 2010. Many companies including Black & Decker’s DeWalt brand, GM’s Chevy Volt and others are using the LiFePO4 batteries made by the manufacture A123 Systems. Samsung has released their own mass line of iron phosphate batteries, which are available through the eZeebike line of electric bikes. Most manufacturers are claiming 1500 to 2000 cycles out of a battery, almost double the LiPoly batteries. The LiFePO4 batteries are about as heavy as the manganese batteries and do cost about 15-20% more than the polymers but are probably the most economical in the long run. We hope to see what another year of testing and design will bring us.

Batteries have been the hurdle that electric vehicle enthusiasts have been working on since the first electric bike and car were produced in the 1890′s. We feel that in the last ten years, the amount of human ingenuity and persistence in the area of battery technology has made the electric dream a very feasible reality. There has never been a better time to be involved with such an interesting and sustainable mode of transportation.